We finally got packed up and rolling at 10 a.m. It was overcast and 46F.
Our first hurdle was an extremely steep hill out of the camping site.
Once we made it out of the driveway it was fairly smooth sailing, though eventually the threat of rain became fact. A light rain became part of our ride for miles. And the temperature stayed about 46F. We put on our rain gear and kept pedaling. The rain stayed light, so it was never too much of an inconvenience aside from making it feel colder.
La Rivière Matapédia kept us company on our left for a portion of our ride, offering extremely beautiful views.
Mostly we rode rolling hills, a few of which made me make use of my Granny gear. For you non-cyclists, this is the gear that should allow the feeblest of people to climb Mt. Everest (I might be exaggerating a bit.). It allowed me to climb those hills.
But there were a few that Granny couldn’t help me with. For those I’d pedal a distance, stop, breathe five to 10 full breaths, pedal some more, ultimately reaching the top of the hill.
There weren’t many amenities on this stretch of the Route Verte. But 13 miles from our destination we found a small diner. Jon ordered the chicken sandwich and I ordered poutine.
Poutine is a Canadian favorite that consists of French fries, cheese curds, and gravy. Délicieux!!
Apparently it also has super powers. I took the lead as we headed out of the parking lot. I started pedaling, not really thinking about it. Just pedaling. Maybe 10 minutes later Jon rode up beside me and asked if the poutine had supercharged me. I hadn’t realized I was riding fast. So there you have it: poutine – the new super food.
Post-poutine, Amqui soon rolled into view. The hill into Amqui tested the Granny gear. It took me multiple starts and stops before making it to the top. But when I finally made it I felt victorious! After 48 miles and 1,072 feet of elevation change, I made it!!
Except I also had to make it to our final destination: our WarmShowers host. Apparently Amqui is a series of hills, some more steep than others. I had to take many more breaks between the city boundary and our host’s place. I actually dumped my bike at one point trying to get back on it while going uphill. Good times.
(I had to walk my bike up the last bit of street to the house, and Jon had to help me get the bike into the driveway. He estimated a 30-35% grade on the street.)
But finally we made it! We have a shed to store the bikes. We have a warm, dry room to sleep in, and I’m not sure I’ve ever appreciated a shower so much!
Right now I’m enjoying a Gaspésie porter while relaxing in the fading light.
Tomorrow we’re off to Matane. There’s a zero percent chance of rain (I’m skeptical.) Thirty-fiveish miles.
You’re early in the season, Gaspésie is best enjoyed in August. You will have fun over the next 2-3 days along the St-Laurence river: flat, wind in your back, great scenery. You’ll have time to build your legs for the hills ahead at Ste-Madeleine and Cloridorme (so far has been a breeze compared to these). have fun !
Everyone has been saying we are at least a few weeks early for the season. But we’re having an easy time to find lodging. It’s cool out, but bearable. And certainly beautiful.
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